Hair Developer Volume Guide
Hair developer (also called peroxide or oxidant) is mixed with permanent colour, bleach or toner to activate the chemical process. The volume number indicates the concentration of hydrogen peroxide, which determines how much the hair cuticle opens and how many levels of lift are achieved. Choosing the right volume is essential for predictable, healthy results.
Developer Volume Comparison
| Volume | Peroxide % | Levels of lift | Processing time | When to use |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 10 vol (3%) | 3% | 0–1 level | 20–30 min | Deposit only, toning, going darker, grey blending, glossing |
| 20 vol (6%) | 6% | 1–2 levels | 30–45 min | Standard permanent colour, 100% grey coverage, moderate lift |
| 30 vol (9%) | 9% | 2–3 levels | 30–45 min | High-lift colour, highlights in foil, bleach lightening |
| 40 vol (12%) | 12% | 3–4 levels | 20–40 min | Maximum lift with bleach, high-lift on resistant hair |
Lift levels are approximate and depend on the hair's natural level, condition and porosity. Always perform a strand test before a full application.
Common Mixing Ratios
The mixing ratio between colour/bleach and developer varies by product type. Always follow the manufacturer's instructions, but these are the most common ratios:
| Product type | Typical ratio (colour:developer) | Example | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Permanent colour (tube) | 1:1 | 60 ml colour + 60 ml developer | Most common ratio; Wella, L'Oréal, Schwarzkopf |
| Permanent colour (some brands) | 1:1.5 | 60 ml colour + 90 ml developer | Some professional lines (check label) |
| High-lift colour | 1:2 | 60 ml colour + 120 ml developer | Extra developer for maximum lift |
| Bleach (powder) | 1:2 | 30 g powder + 60 ml developer | Standard bleach mixing; adjust for consistency |
| Toner (permanent) | 1:2 | 30 ml toner + 60 ml 10 vol | Most toners use 10 vol developer |
| Demi-permanent colour | 1:1 | 60 ml colour + 60 ml low-vol developer | Uses specific low-volume activator (not standard developer) |
Safety Guidelines
Higher volume developers are more aggressive on the hair and scalp. Always use the lowest volume that achieves your desired result. Never use 40 vol on the scalp without extreme care. Perform a 48-hour allergy patch test before every colour service, even on returning clients.
Developer Calculator
Use our free tool to calculate exact mixing quantities:
- Developer Ratio Calculator — calculate colour and developer quantities for any ratio
Processing times and lift levels are general guidelines. Results depend on the client's hair condition, porosity, natural level and product brand. Always perform a strand test and follow the manufacturer's instructions.