Why do I need a natural base shade for grey coverage?

Grey (white) hair lacks melanin pigment, making it resistant to colour. Natural base shades contain more direct dyes and less lift, providing better deposit and coverage. Fashion shades alone may result in translucent or patchy coverage on grey hair. The higher the grey percentage, the more natural base you need in the formula.

What is pre-softening for grey hair?

Pre-softening opens the cuticle of resistant grey hair to allow better colour penetration. Apply 20 vol developer to dry grey hair for 10 minutes, then towel dry (do not rinse) and apply colour on top. This dramatically improves coverage on stubborn, wiry grey hair.

What developer should I use for grey coverage?

Use 20 vol (6%) developer for grey coverage. It provides enough oxidation to develop the colour fully while the small amount of lift helps the cuticle accept the colour. 10 vol can work for deposit-only coverage on softer grey hair. Never use 30 or 40 vol just for grey coverage.

Why does my grey coverage fade quickly?

Grey hair has a smooth, glassy cuticle that resists colour penetration. If the cuticle is not opened sufficiently, colour sits on the surface and washes out quickly. Solutions include pre-softening, using permanent (not semi-permanent) colour, full 35-45 minute processing, and avoiding shampoos with sulphates which strip colour faster.

CutCalcs

Grey Coverage Calculator — Formulation Ratios

Adjust colour formulation ratios for optimal grey and white hair coverage at any grey percentage.

Grey Hair Percentage

Estimate the proportion of grey/white hair

Target Level

Hair Length

How We Calculate This

This calculator recommends the proportion of natural base shade to fashion shade based on your client's grey percentage. Higher grey percentages need more natural base for reliable coverage.

The guidelines

0-25% grey: Fashion shade alone is usually sufficient
25-50% grey: Mix natural base equal to grey percentage
50-75% grey: Increase natural base — consider pre-softening
75-100% grey: 75%+ natural base with pre-softening recommended

Frequently Asked Questions

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Last updated: February 2026

All calculations are estimates. Always perform a strand test before chemical services.